Wednesday, September 18, 2013

FLASH: It's Here! STR- EK, A.K.A., "STREK" by (GEC)


















This will be the label for the canister tube the knife comes in. Some of these are being signed if I'm asked

The above knife and any with the area in front of the saw teeth obviously given a zip with the belt were done by me for customers wanting it. I tried to add this change last minute to the design after seeing and using the first examples of the folder when I received them as I feel it makes it a better poke saw but it was too late to make this change and it would have changed the cost once more to my folder. It pokes as it comes from GEC and is well tapered now with the tip adjustment that was done by GEC. . These first few like shown above of the first 35 received were among those deemed the 'fat tipped STREK' so they did not fit the screws they should fit anyway. As a result of those first few I found that were fat on the tips I did some modification on my first carry knife. I liked the addition of a straight edge so much when I  did that to my own knife, especially after I used it.  I wanted to incorporate it along with the tip adjustment GEC had to do anyway as noted but it just didn't fly.  For what it is worth  I've found it helps with digging around and particularly when using the folder as a poke saw. It may be best not to if you use the flat head a lot though as you'll ding the cutting part if you take the edge all the way to the end. Using this folder of mine,  I installed a new dead bolt and had to make a square hole in a door jam in wood. the other night. This tip edge and saw worked together like a champ for this. I could see a real advantage to adding micro serrated teeth to the area I put an edge on. Something like the old SAK Wenger scissors had for that tip portion in front of the saw could be a real useful item for things like notching and corner making in tight spaces but perhaps nothing will be more useful than a plain straight edge just sharp enough to cut printer paper.. Since Bill refused that part of the adjustment doing this yourself voids the warranty to put an edge on it but most people  using these folders abuse them and most companies would call what we do to electricians knives abuse. I have no hesitation about doing this should someone want it done to theirs. 











The STR-EK was designed to bring all the same things to the table as its larger predecessor , electricians folding knives, and more.  What I wanted was a pocket-worthy folder; something very much pocket-sized and not something big and bulky that couldn’t be added to the EDC line-up.  The old 29 models of yesteryear were huge and, depending on handle material, could weigh upwards of 5 oz.  Most were famous for being nail breakers upon opening due to heavy back spring pressure and draw.  This excess stiffness, as well as large size and pocket damaging protrusions, are a drawback to an otherwise great model.   The STR-EK does away with those annoying issues.

Classic fans of the original are already referring to this as the “STREK” folder.  Its weight is no more than 2.7 oz per folder.  The handles on all are green linen micarta but offers a choice on the blade: sheep’s foot or spear point.  The original EK has a flat head screw driver small enough to fit electrical outlets as well as screws used on license plates.  Unlike the old EK, the STREK driver is equipped with a push-cut saw that can cut drywall or wood panels cleanly and precisely.  With the cut on the push it decreases the mess seen when installing outlets or cutting to fit pipe and so on; most of the mess goes inside the wall.  Simply put, push cut is much neater and also easier to control for straight cuts where appearance is a factor.  

The addition of the saw is not a drawback to use, nor does it cut your hand in use as it is primarily a sheet rock saw.  It can be used for other small sawing projects in a pinch and you’ll be glad to have it handy.  The driver/saw blade has 2 wire strippers in both choils, the half-moon shaped finger rests of the blade.  Just because it has a saw will not negate nor diminish the other features.  These choil rest areas double as both a stripper and a choil/index rest and are effectively tapered to an edge to strip wire quite well.  

  While supplies last, it is available here as well as Great Eastern Cutlery dealers as the “Titioute Electricians Knife”. 
Quite simply these are the best electricians knives ever offered to the public.  If you do any residential install work and make any kind of living with a drywall saw and a screwdriver, you owe it to yourself to get one of these.  Write it off taxes as a business expense, put it in your pocket and one day you’ll be thanking me when a project arises where this tool saves the day or saves you a lot of steps back to your toolbox to find the right tool.

I came up with this design as youngster and had physically modified several knives trying to create this with existing knives.  Even at a young age, when working as a plumber’s helper, I thought that it would be handy to have a drywall saw to carry in my pocket.  As the plumber’s helper even I had to cut drywall a few times around pipes, vents, light fixtures, etc.  poking  through  walls, floors and ceilings.  It always puzzled me, and irritated me since I was the one doing all the running, as to why a saw was not included on an electrician’s folder!  The electricians knife is my most used and abused knife pattern and the design is as much for contractors as well as electricians.  This is a darn handy little folder, extremely well made by GEC.  Only a limited number have been produced.   The picture shows 2 knives just so you can see the different blade shapes.  The cost is $75 per knife.   If interested I advise you purchase now as they may not ever be available again and certainly will not be offer ever again in green linen micarta.  Please see my videos of this model in action on Youtube.

STR





Here is the link to the proto-type first one up over at the Great Eastern Cutlery web page.
STR GEC Production SFO

Sunday, August 11, 2013

The Fold Over Style Clip (How To)

Someone emailed earlier asking if I had a how to on how to fold over a clip using some titanium or stainless and I only had written ones so I thought I'd show a simple way anyone can just do a couple if you want to play around. Just don't burn yourself. No long sleeves or if you do wear them have cuffs on them so it is not flapping around on you. Get the long hair tied back. Don't have anything flammable around that you might lay a hot clip on to burn the place up and stuff like that. Remember measure twice, bend once. Look and fold only when hot and if your timing gets messed up you can't hurt anything to heat it again. Start over if you need. Keep the scraps for learning until its so small you can't make it fold over anymore.

On many of the issues regarding factory clips I can save you some time getting too carried away unless you are a glutton for punishment like I was and like learning the hard way. I will caution again even though I put it in a bubble in the video, going thicker can sound nice but bending it is an art, and if you go too thick the factory screws won't grab and some manufactures cut things pretty dang close as you know. So sometimes just bumping the thickness .005 of an inch is all it takes to mean the screws no longer grab to tighten down. So unless you want to get into cutting and custom making your own screw lengths to fit you want to stick with as close to the factory equipment as possible. 

Below is me on my day off but after getting this email I liked the idea and thought you know, I can probably help with that. So let me know how I did and if you try some hey bring em on over and show me. :-) 


Tuesday, March 5, 2013

About Folding Knife Locks

Shown here in these videos and as stated in the description if you click show more once you go to youtube I try to cover some of the questions I've had both in the past and recently regarding this subject. If you have questioned what it means when someone on a forum writes something about 'peening the lock' to adjust the lock or other such things about lock adjustments this may help clarify some of it. 

As you know in an ideal world there are proper ways to do things and there are other ways to 'skin a cat' as the old saying goes. Cutlers both past and present day are aware of many ways to meet an end and this is but one way to adjust a liner lock. It is also possible for a skilled cutler to adjust the stop pin diameter to achieve the same results rather than peen the lock. In some cases where a knife never seen before is opened up after being disassembled you sometimes find that the lock has already been adjusted by peening. I've opened up knives bought new both by myself and customers that have had this adjustment done at the factory. So in the event that this is the case it may not be possible to continue with another attempt to correct it again the same way. In cases such as these adjusting the stop pin size can work but it also means adjusting the blade and how it sits at rest when in the closed position. If you increase the diameter of the stop pin which it rests on it may lift the blade so high that the detent ball no longer catches. To adjust for this one goes though much the same process as one does to make a slip joint back spring flush in both the opened and closed positions making baby step adjustments until the detent once again catches and/or the point of the blade is once again tucked safely between the liners instead of sticking out to catch something like fingers or pant pockets. 

See the video for more. Now that I have a half way decent small camera for video I plan to try to do more of these for folks and some days I may have more time to devote to this than others so bear with me. I've been meaning to do this for a long time. See the video for more. 

STR








About lock cuts and how to do them.

Thursday, February 28, 2013

Anodizing made easy

Ideally one would want to dawn rubber gloves and wear those throughout the process shown. Otherwise this works for anodizing if you have a power source. 9 volt batteries hooked up in series can also do this but I don't recommend doing it this way and if you do keep the batteries low in number. Three is as far as I'd suggest you try on that method and even then in the event a line crosses it can cause a battery or all of them to pop! Also,  I should have noted in the video also that instead of using a Scotchbrite pad to take any surface oxidation off the metal parts Smoky Mt. Knife Works sells a little item called, "The RUST Eraser" that every knife nut should have. You can slice these blocks or erasers any thickness you like so these also work to clean up the back spring or other metal areas one has to take surface oxidation off of after you color the liners. These erasers can fit once you slice one so that it only requires a good swipe once or twice covering the entire area of the back spring width all in one neat sweep. This way you don't drift into the liners scratching the color off in places as you clean the other parts. 

On a lot of the open build type folders being offered today in the industry such as, Benchmade and Emerson liner locks (some Emerson years had one side cheesy cheap stainless liner instead of the titanium but the lock side is titanium) this works great to anodize the liners without even having to take the knife apart. Of course it does nothing to change them inside or on the sides. So if you were to want to color the entire liner inside and out then you'd have to then disassemble the knife. Remember to seal the stainless steel detent ball in the lock and the non lock side on Emerson liners with a dab of nail polish and then remove it after dipping to color anodize. Failing to remember this step could result in a gritty feeling action due to oxidation on your stainless balls from anodizing.. You can also use duct tape if you don't dip too long and it works just fine in most all cases.